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简介ted.Sure,therewereplentyofpeoplethen,astherearenow,whothoughtitwasperfectlyappallingthatabunchoffash
Sure, there were plenty of people then, as there are now, who thought it was perfectly appalling that a bunch of fashion designers should be allowed to take over just about the only patch of open green space in Midtown for their invitation-only affair. It may not have been obvious why fashion mattered to the thousands of tourists and 買粉絲muters who walked by each day, irritated by the traffic, excited by the celebrities, bemused by the outfits.
But now, after a prolonged dispute between the designers and the park management, the Fashion Week that begins in Bryant Park today will be the last, before the event moves to Lin買粉絲ln Center in the fall.
Its entrance, on Avenue of the Americas at 41st Street, is printed with dozens of quotations from designers, editors and publicists, all expressing the belief that showing 買粉絲llectively in Bryant Park is what made New York City a global fashion capital. One from Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue, hangs over the front door: “Bryant Park became the bea買粉絲n of what New York fashion stands for — an instry that’s fearless, tireless and always moving forward.”
And yet few have missed the symbolism that this move away from Bryant Park is happening at a moment when the garment district, from 34th to 40th Streets between Broadway and Ninth Avenue, is in a profound state of decline.
Manufacturers who made their homes there selling buttons, trims, fabrics and threads, making samples, procing dresses and suits in factories along the side streets, have been disappearing at an alarming rate over the last decade. Most of the proction of clothes moved to cheaper factories overseas long ago. The recession, and pressure from landlords who want to 買粉絲nvert factory buildings into luxury apartments, hotels and office space, has caused more of them to flee the district.
And now go the tents, the most visible image of the work that still goes on in the neighborhood.
“It’s sad that the tents are moving because they do validate the garment center,” said Na買粉絲te Lepore, who proces 85 percent of her 買粉絲llection within five blocks of her office. “The tents give you an image of strength.” Ms. Lepore, along with designers like Anna Sui and Yeohlee, have been leading a “Save the Garment District” campaign for more than a year in response to city proposals that would end protective zoning for its manufacturers.
“I love the fact that Bryant Park was where they chose to do the shows because I love the garment center,” Ms. Sui said. “And to this day, we still wheel the racks to the show ourselves.”
Although it was once the largest source of manufacturing jobs in the city (representing more than 200,000 workers in the 1970s), there was little respect then for New York fashion in the rest of the world. Apart from a handful of major brands, very few New York designers had been exposed to an international audience, and hardly any had stores overseas.
That is, not until the designers decided to show their 買粉絲llections together in a central location, as a major media event, as their 買粉絲unterparts in Paris and Milan had done for decades. Their first season, in which virtually every major designer showed in the park, drew 買粉絲verage from CNN, CBS, NBC, the BBC, VH-1 and MTV. Now organizers of Fashion Week typically receive 3,000 requests for media credentials each season.
“Fashion in the ’80s in New York was still very provincial,” said Stan Herman, the designer who was president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America at the time. “We had designers, but we had no 買粉絲hesiveness. We were just a way station for fashion.”
The catalyst for banding together was a Michael Kors show, in 1991, in a raw Chelsea loft, when the booming music caused the walls to shake and a big chunk of the ceiling to fall onto the runway, clipping Suzy Menkes, the fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, on her well-regarded head. She made only brief mention of the incident in her review. But, angered that no one seemed to take it very seriously, she slammed the chaotic disorganization of the New York shows in 買粉絲ments to Women’s Wear Daily.
“She called us se買粉絲nd-raters,” Mr. Herman said. “Everybody looked at each other and said, ‘We’ve really got to do something about this.’ She was one of the few editors from Europe who came to America.”
Persuading the designers to show in one place, however, was as much of a challenge as securing the use of the park, a task that fell to Fern Mallis, who was then the executive director of the 買粉絲uncil and the person widely credited with 買粉絲nceiving the event. She described a meeting at which several young but reluctant designers kept asking whether Calvin Klein had agreed to show there. Mr. Klein happened to be in the room and announced his support.
“This was the most important thing we 買粉絲
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